At the end of my last post about this model I was about to mask and spray the exhausts with Alclad Burnt Iron. This is a very effective colour for exhausts in this scale, especially as it gives a sense of subtle colour changes in metal which has been heated.
With this done I went on to give the whole model a wash of Van Dyke Brown thinned with Humbrol Enamel thinner. This was allowed to dry, then removed with a cotton bud dipped in the thinner. The drying part is important because without this there's a good chance that the entire wash will simply be removed rather than leaving behind a trace in the panel lines and rivets, notably in the lighter areas. I was particularly concerned to emphasise the panel lines around the cowling and down to the wing roots. On the other hand I was also concerned not to leave too much on the surface, so darkening the paint job and giving a heavy feeling to the weathering.
Then with a deep breath I carried out a selective wash of Titanium Buff. This gave a good fading effect on the paint as well as simulating deposits of dust in the hot Mediterranean climate. With the dark colours in this camouflage scheme the contrast which Buff allows is also much better for highlighting surface detail such as rivet lines. Nonetheless, this wasn't used as a general wash, but particularly in the areas with the dark brown paint. Then it was removed over several sessions, taking advantage of the slow drying time which oils provide. I'm very pleased with the result, especially the interplay of the colours and the depth which the oils give. This is particularly visible in the image below.
After drying I then did an even more selective set of pin washes and streaks around the cowling, down the sides of the fuselage forward of the cockpit and in the areas around the wing roots using Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna, followed by a sponge application of a heavily thinned mixture of XF 1and XF 64. This latter mixture was especially used at the wing roots. These washes reduced the harshness of the previous metal chipping and gave a much more lived in feel to these high-use areas.
The next stage was a selective use of AK Streaking Grime and then some Mig Oil and Grease stains around the fuel cap.
Again this was allowed to dry and then a thin layer of buff was sprayed around the exhausts in order to simulate the exhaust heating and fumes. This was followed by another layer of XF 64 with a dot of flat black. I also used this for some post shading of wheels, undercarriage, etc. It's at this stage that I like to stick to a piece of advice which I once read in an article by Mike Cappell along the lines that when you get to the stage where you think another layer will do the job, stop right there. It's the best piece of advice I've ever read, especially with exhaust staining and post-shading because it really is easy to overdo it.
Next was the nerve-racking removal of the masks over clear parts, but this went very well, with only one small bit of paint to clean up under the mask on the windscreen. These parts are wonderfully thin and having been dipped in Klear at a much earlier stage and allowed to dry over a period of weeks, they have a high shine which looks convincing.
The key at this stage is not to get overexcited and rush it. The end is in sight and it's all too easy for me to want to reach the finish line. The result is a tendency to make mistakes which undermine all that hard work and having had this experience in the past I have learned my lesson well.
This is just as well because the undercarriage presented some problems. I started by test-fitting the leg on the port side, took it out and then wondered where the tab had gone. It was still in the hole and had snapped off with minimal pressure. This was very odd, especially as I hadn't noticed it happening and was very careful with the parts. I have no idea what happened but I drilled out the hole completely as well as hollowing out the leg, fitted brass rod into the leg and then glued it in place. This has probably resulted in a stronger joint but this was an unexpected diversion. Just to add to the sense that this was one of those weird things that sometimes happen, the starboard leg was fine.
After the undercarriage had been left to set I went over it and the rear fins of the exhaust with a very light dusting of Mig pigment. It was then a question of fitting the various protuberances such as the mirror, the aerial, the cockpit door and the cockpit hood.
The final piece to be attached was the propeller on the basis that it's the part which is most likely to be snapped off in a moment of clumsiness. This is the last thing I wanted and it was fitted with great delicacy and care.
So that's it, all done after all these months. At this point it's a question of sitting back and admiring the genius of the Eduard designers and the engineers at Supermarine all those years ago. I'll be posting a full kit review soon but in the meantime I'll say that I'm very pleased with the final result.
Is the weathering overdone? Well actually a number of contemporary photos make it clear that if anything it is understated, with aircraft in both North Africa and Italy looking notably ragged and battered.
Finally, It be placed on a wooden base which will hopefully complement the colour scheme.
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